The bike polo bike has a Quando hub on the rear - reknown for being made of some form of silver cheese. I'm riding it fixed. The rear cog was done up as tight as I could (using the wheel rim as the lever) and the locking ring was done up as tight as I dared to take it.
The wee lassie wanted to take her new bike up to the playground tonight, so I took the polo bike to practice some skid stops and track stands.
After a few skids (of only about 6" - got a way's to go there), the rear cog suddenly lets go. I quickly front pedalled and spun it back on, then stopped using the brake - the locking ring was hanging loose. Those locking rings are reverse threaded compared to the cog and looking at it, it looks like the locking ring has just sprung off the thread - it was certainly didn't want to thread back on again, though I managed after a bit.
So what gives?
Locking ring too loose? I doubt it because I'd been caught before there and really did do it up to what felt like stripping point.
Is the locking ring (probably the one that came with the Quando hub) just a cheap 'n nasty?
Is this sort of thing common with Quando hubs? I've already stripped one the main thread of one of them when started off on the velodrome one night, but that thread was already dodgy. Stripping the locking ring thread just seems daft.
Do you need grease between the locking ring and the cog? (something I only just thought of).
This ruddy bike polo bike is determined to be an expensive beast.
is there any thread left on the locking ring, or is it the thread on the hub that is stripped?
Always grease the threads on the hub (both cog and lockring) as you are threading steel onto aluminium. They will go on easier and come off easier. That said, it seems this brand of hub is a little infamous...
Lots of grease on the threads, but I didn't put any on the face between the locking ring and the cog, which now seems like a good idea - thoughts on that would be welcome.
The cog still seems to screw on okay - that thread isn't damaged and I was able to tighten it by standing hard on the pedal and pulling on the rim, maybe not the best method but I was still down at the park at that point.
The hub thread for the locking ring looks 'thinner'. I didn't look at the ring itself, being steel, I didn't expect it to suffer any. I've got it screwed back on but haven't done it up any tighter than finger tight at this point (too lazy to dig out the tool box).
And typically, if I have to replace the hub (I can build wheels), it opens all sorts of questions about rims and wheel size (mtb frame base?) and eccentric hubs - it's okay to start asking those questions because I don't have any money to do anything about it.
Actually, I've got an old hybrid in the shed that might work as a polo bike ... with an eccentric hub built into the rear wheel.
Sorry, I'm a fixed nut ... for no rational reasons.
the hubs must be crap/MADE OF CHEESE for you to spin one of those then!
Note there are also two major (and several minor) thread standards for lockrings, it's not uncommon for people to have the wrong lockring on if they have bought an aftermarket one. They have the same thread pitch but different diameter (a trap for young players).
It could be I've just got the wrong locking ring though I'd be surprised. The wheels (very second hand) came with Qando's and after I stripped the first hub, the wheel builder just put the same hub back in dammit. I'm pretty sure the locking ring came with it, but I may have just grabbed one out of the box of bits. I wasn't aware of the difference in locking rings, foolishly thinking that a locking ring is a locking ring so thanks for the heads up.
Anyways, I'll do the thing up as tight as I can, maybe splash some locktite in there, then use it until it fails. I can't afford anything different at the moment anyway. Worst comes to worst, I'll just turn the wheel around and use a freewheel on the other side, though I"ll need a better brake that the ancient, very low quality side pull I"m using at the moment.