Folks,

Im running an 10 speed Ultegra drivetrain: 6750 compacts, 6701 chain & 6700 cassette. I use a KMC Missing Link rather than the Shimano pin. Bike is now just over 3yrs old, riding at the most 8,000km/yr. I have put on my 4th chain/cassette change about a month ago, changing at 1% wear/stretch (unless its winter where i run things thru the wet weather). Chain rings are originals.

I am giving 1month riding as adequate 'bed in' time for the chain/cassette but it is still too noisy for my liking. I am assuming it is due for at least replacement of the 34 if not both chain rings? Is this a reasonable expectation?

The only palce i can find to source 2 new chain rings online (other than the US, which is a pain re postage) is www.evanscycles.com for around $120  which I dont mind, although i am not familiar with them (or crankset $214 from PBK). Is there anthing particularly obscure about this crankset such that chain rings are a rare commodity?

I also find that shifting on the cassette is poor even when the chain/cassette is new & tuned. It seems that i need to be 'gentle & slow' when activating the shifters whereas i used to be able to  punch quite 'hard & fast'. Nevertheless, gear changes are still much slower than they used to be. Can this be related to the chain rings too or am i missing something else...sticky cable, gunked up shifters....?

Is there any value in changing the chain at 0.75% wear/stretch as apposed to 1%, give its the cheapest part to change, without affecting percormance too much?

Cheers, Simon

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Jockey wheels? Either take out, clean and a tiny touch of oil or replace. They're pretty cheap. I did it this week..

Might be time to replace the cables?

Yes, cables - - I change mine yearly, and it keeps shifting smooth and fast.. Should certainly be changed if you often ride in the wet.

Have you tuned the gears?

Make sure your chain is on the correct way. Outward facing side should show only every second link slotted, inside facing all links slotted.
Also change inner AND outer cables with Shimano, not aftermarket like Jag etc

Also, ensure the cassette lockring is tight and there is no play in the cassette. Do you have the thin spacer on the cassette body behind the cassette?

If you change your chain at 0.75% wear consistently, then the cassette should be less worn. You should be able to go through 2 or 3 chains before changing the cassette.

A worn chainring would theoretically wear your chain faster, since you have been through 4 chains you can probably figure out if your doing less kms for your 1% chain wear.

The other thing that you can look for is how the new chain sits on the chainrings. If all the chain links look like they are sitting on the teeth uniformly then its probably ok, A worn chainring would have NEW chain links sitting partially on some of the teeth. 

the chainrings should not affect your rear shifting. Time for cable change?

Check the cables - as suggested.

Is the rear derailleur in good order?  moving smoothly on its pivots?

Are the gear shifters been serviced recently? We've seen some that dont work well because the grease dried out - maybe take the cover off take a look. ..

With 10 days off the bike thanks to sickness, ah the joys of fatherhood! I was slowly able to apply those pearls of wisdom:

  • Play in wheel hubs? nup.
  • Chain right way? Yep. Cleaned chain, chainrings & cassette.
  • Checked cassette; no play, lockring tight & spacer in place.
  • Cleaned & lubed derailieur, stripped & cleaned jockeys & replaced one. Hanger sould be Ok, proffessionally straightned since last crash!
  • Cleaned & lubed the rear cable at botom bracket & where outer cable goes into derailieur.
  • Rolled cover off rear shifters, cleaned as best as one could & re greased.
  • Whislt up on the stand cleaned brake pads, cleaned & lubed brake calipers & front derailiuer.
  • Tightend slack in shifter cable, tuned gears.
  • Lubed chain. Cleaned rims.

End result? Shifing sweet & noise gone!

Very handy to have someone else's perspective, thanks to all for advice.

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