Adelaide Cyclists

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4 sale or swap

Bikes and parts for sale or swap in Adelaide.

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Latest Activity: 1 day ago

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Jeremy Miller

Bikes for Sale - reposted as discussion 2 Replies

Hi AllThe items below were originally posted as a comment to the "4 Sale or Swap" group - posting here as a discussion as all of it except of the very last frame is still for sale!!##Original Post##…

Started by Jeremy Miller. Last reply by Clive Palfrey Apr 9.

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Angus Kingston Comment by Angus Kingston 1 day ago
... and the Classifieds URL is here http://tinyurl.com/2a2etfa and currently found under the Links button on the main tool bar.
Angus Kingston Comment by Angus Kingston 1 day ago
Hello buyers, sellers and hoarders.

I have added a new piece of functionality to Adelaide Cyclists to buy, sell or swap items as classifieds. At the moment I have only invited this group to check it out and hope you have something to list.

Soon I will let everyone know they can use it. They don't need to be a member of this group to use it. Currently it is free to use but it might be that I might incur a small charge in return for more functionality.

Enjoy.

I have added a feed of it into the top of this group. A
Aaron Englert Comment by Aaron Englert on June 4, 2010 at 9:27pm
Seeking 165 non drive or 170 triple drive side square taper crank arm. Yeah I bought a bike with uneven cranks.
Angus Kingston Comment by Angus Kingston on June 4, 2010 at 10:47am
Sam, Sam, Sam.. Highlight the word you want to make a hyperlink and the select the little icon 5 across next to the S with the strikethru. A box appears and you paste in the URL... or just paste the URL longform into your post..

We should consider using the discussion section above for discussions to keep the replies threaded. I also have a 7 speed derailleur going.
Mike H Comment by Mike H on June 4, 2010 at 10:44am
That's great Sam. My son will be delighted. Drop me an email:

mikehop1 at gmail dot com

with your contact details and address, and we can arrange pick up.
Sam Powrie Comment by Sam Powrie on June 4, 2010 at 10:39am
Mike, $5 should be fine (if that's not considered excessive - let me know if so!) I think I have a couple of them - I'll have to dig into the RD box and look. I may even have something newer. You could try it and if NG I'll take it back. Regarding my long post - I put several links in there - they don't come up. I'll have to ask Angus to help me with the arcane posting tools as they don't seem to like me! Angus? (loud with rising inflection)
Sam P.
Mike H Comment by Mike H on June 4, 2010 at 10:20am
Thanks Sam. That's great. So what did you want for your Deore 7 speed?
Sam Powrie Comment by Sam Powrie on June 4, 2010 at 9:12am
Hi Jim,
Yes - I am confident that a 7 speed deraileur would work OK for the purposes you have in mind. Even better if the bike has thumbshifters and you can 'switch off' the indexing!

Here are some excellent articles and comments on the subject from two experts on the subject - the dear-departed Sheldon Brown and Chris Juden, engineer with the UK's CTC. The last comment (from Sheldon) is probably the most succinct.

1.
Why older derailleurs are often more ‘compatible’ than newer ones:
“There has been more improvement in front derailers than in rears. If you have an older front derailer, and it is not giving satisfactory performance, you may benefit from a replacement. Beware, however, because older front derailers were designed to work with a wide range of chainwheel sizes, while new models are optimized for particular ratios, and may not work well with your crankset.”

2.

“The clicks are in the shifter and that is the thing that determines the number of speeds, by pulling or releasing a certain amount of cable (and of course it has a corresponding number of clicks). The mech provides a conversion or shift ratio that is the same, road and mountain alike and regardless of how many speeds it says on the box. All that really indicates is how precisely the mech is constructed. More speeds means a closer pitch and that demands more precision to avoid the chain rattling against the next sprocket. So the difference is mostly just a matter of shifting accuracy and a 9-speed mech can be used in a 7-speed system.”

3. From Chris Juden:

“If you have a Shimano compatible freehub with a steel freewheel body that says it's designed for 8 or 9 speeds, any Shimano-type 8, 9 or 10-speed cassette will fit, since those cassettes all have the same number of splines and same minimum (inside splines) diameter. And although it may seem improbable, they are actually all the same width. You can even fit a Shimano 7-speed cassette if you put on a 4mm back spacer first.
The latest Dura-Ace freehub, however, has an alloy freewheel body with taller splines (so there is more contact area between cog and body, befitting the weaker material) and only Shimano 10-speed cassettes have the corresponding deeper between-splines slots. So that hub is 10-speed only.”
&
Lower gears on a road-bike – 2005.11
"
I have Shimano 105 with 52,40,30 chainset and 12 to 25 9-speed cassette. Not enough for a trip to the Pyreneees. Can I fit a Deore 11–34 cassette on my Shimano hub? Any type of Deore? I would of course get a Deore rear mech as well. Can I still use my indexed (STI) brake lever shifters?"

A: Yes you can! The cassettes are dimensioned the same and all current Shimano MTB mechs are compatible with “road” indexing. Any of them will do 34T, but you probably want to avoid the “Low Normal” versions, which work back to front, and make sure you get an “SGS” version – that’s with the longest cage and greatest chain wrap capacity.
You can also fit a smaller inner ring on that chainset. TA make them down to 24T to fit its 5×74mm bcd, but 26T is probably the smallest that can be used with your 52T outer before the chain starts to rub the bottom of the cage. Maybe that’ll be low enough for you, with a 12–27 road cassette, to avoid the expense of a new rear mech?
To see how much smaller you can make your inner chainring: engage the smallest rear sprocket you'll ever want to use it with and get out your allen keys. Use them to gauge the clearance under the chain whilst applying light hand pressure to the cranks. Chain height varies by 2mm per tooth. So if, for example, the 8mm key was the biggest that would fit in the cage without touching the chain, you could safely use an inner ring four teeth smaller.”

4. Direct from the Master himself:
“A note about capacity:
Manufacturers have to assume that their customers are clueless, and will expect the chain to have some tension on it even in the bad gears where the chain is using small chainrings with small rear sprockets. Thus, the rated chain-wrap capacity is very conservative. A competent cyclist who uses the gears properly can generally exceed this by several teeth with no problem.
Most derailers also specify a maximum size rear sprocket. This is often a pessimistic value, based on the largest sprocket that is normally provided as part of that group.
How Many Speeds?
Rear derailers often are referred to as "7-speed", "8-speed" or "9-speed." This is not as important a distinction as it might appear. Current model derailers are pretty much interchangeable within brands. A "7-speed" or "8-speed" designation general just indicates that the derailer is an older design, or a cheaper model. They'll all work with all 3 systems, though the models marked "9-speed" will generally be slightly better (whatever cluster you use.)”

The main issue seems to be retaining good index shifting when trying to use older and probably worn out rear mechs on a 9 speed bike with 'trigger' shifters (where the indexing can't be 'turned off'). The trick - I've found - is just to avoid the very cheap derailleurs and to make sure there's no slop in the bushings. A Deore or Altus level should work OK if in good condition. The only other real issues (which I assume you're aware of is chain wrap - you need an mtb deraileur for low (large) mtb sprockets and for the super-low ones (34 tooth etc with very small front chainwheels) it's often easier to use one of the more recent Shimano offerings with the much larger lower pulleys (I think they are referred to as SGS). But again 'speed' and 'elevl' don't really matter. Also be aware that a couple of the recent Shimano rear deraileurs have springs that default to the outer position rather than the inner - see article comments. It's not the minefield that many would suggest!
Sam 'swap and see' P.
Mike H Comment by Mike H on June 3, 2010 at 7:52pm
Sam. That's interesting. I assumed a 7 speed would not be compatible with a 9 speed. You're confident that it would be?
Sam Powrie Comment by Sam Powrie on June 3, 2010 at 7:03pm
Mike, I may be able to help you with a 7 speed Deore or something similar (I've probably even got a much more modern by a bit wonky XT). The Deore would be entirely compatible with the bike's 9 speed set up - as would the Altus that someone has already offered you.
Sam P.
 

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Jason Ting Clive Palfrey Jeremy Miller Angus Kingston Jon Hogan Alex Kingston Amanda Steele David Case Mike H Andrew Yip Sam Powrie Sammy the Crab Aaron Englert Wombat Alexander Langman Hender Alex Streich Ben Teoh Sam Bell Carla Scragg Matthew Todd Jim Woods Mark Matthew Peter Jenkin Rob W Chris Mack Josh Beck Neil Oakes
 
 
 

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