Cassettes - What Sprocket Combination Should I consider
I know this question is a bit like "how long is a piece of string" but I'm curious (and a little naive) as to what combination of Sprockets I need on a Cassette.
After a successful Melbourne Cup I have been given the green light to go ahead with the purchase of some new wheels. I think I've narrowed down the wheel selection, however the selection of the Cassette is proving a little more difficult.
I've decide to go with the Dura-Ace 7900 10 Speed Cassette, however there is quite a choice for sprocket combo.
11-21
11-23
11-25
11-27
11-28
12-23
12-25
12-27
I'm running 53-39T up front and my current wheels are 12-23T and this combo seems ok and seems sufficient for climbing and fast flats and downhills.
My first thoughts were to just get the Dura-Ace equivalent 12-23. But is this an opportunity to change things up for the better.....That and my usual online store doesn't have the 12-23 in stock.
My search online didn't really clear things up for me so I thought I'd put it out there for comment. Happy to hear all sides of the story and what works best for who and what.
At this stage I'm leaning towards the 11-23.......
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Darren Bosanko on -
Fair call. It just sounded like it was something you were prepared to do often. Obviously the climbing speaks for itself.
Still I guess it depends on the course. I would assume it is not common practice on fairly flat courses.
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Permalink Reply by Nic Clark on -
Yeah you're right, big ringing it most of the time when above 32k's.
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Permalink Reply by Justin V on -
Maybe I also need to HTFU but I'm running a compact along with an ultegra 11-28. It's fantastic. Yes some of the differences between the top end gears are significant but I don't pretend to be that much of a professional to care. I figure that at least I can get to the top of pretty much any hill that looks at me.
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Permalink Reply by Davidtcr on -
It really does depend on what type of riding and what type of rider you are.
If you are a sprinter and find that you are spinning out in your 53/12, or cruise along the flats at around 50kmhr then you are a candidate for going to an 11.
If you are mortal like most of us, you would be better staying with the 12 as your lowest gear and putting on a 12-25. You probably won't use the 25 that much but it can be nice on long and/or steep hills.
Alternatively if you are planning on doing any riding in Alpine areas then you might want to consider the 12-27, or even 11-28 as this does require a larger spread of gears.
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Permalink Reply by Steve Blight on -
It's an interesting question. I'm running 12-25 Ultegra and for just about all the riding I do it's fantastic.
Have been doing some tough climbs lately though and considering an Alps trip to europe next year and probably want to do the three peaks tour at some stage, so thinking about a 12 - 27 or 11 -28 so I can spin a bit faster. I'd probably want to be able to sway between cassettes depending on what I'm doing.
IMO 11-23 would be a potential problem for my knees having to grind up the longer climbs.
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Permalink Reply by Dahondude on -
@Steve - Can thoroughly recommend riding in the Alps (come to the slide show tomorrow night and I can tell you more) but trust me, even with a 27 or 28 you don't spin up those alpine climbs! Km's of 9-13% gradients are a grind even in 39/27. But its still much easier than doing it in a 23 or 25. Another option is going to compact crankset- 50/34 which means you can keep the smaller jumps in gear inches on the rear cassette (eg 12-25) but still have granny gears for climbing. My brother has a compact and he certainly has no problems dragging me off on the flats (ie 50/12 he can keep a sensible cadence at 60+ km/h), while still having plenty of easy options on the climbs.
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Permalink Reply by easytiger on
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I rode all the major climbs in France (Alps and Pyrenees), and the Italian/Swiss Alps with a 42/28 on my touring bike with 20kgs of stuff and it is a matter of how fit you are. Typically terminal velocity in that gear is about 12km/h, any less than that and you fall over!
As to Darren's post, an 11 is only useful when you are doing 65km/h (downhill, or in my younger fitter days what I could hit in a full-on flat sprint), so a 12 is more than adequate. At the other end, on the flat a 21 (straight block) should suffice, but the longer and steeper the hill/mountain you are going to attempt then I always like a bail-out gear. For instance, when I'm really knackered I ride Norton Summit, Greenhill, Freeway in a 25. When I am fitter, or less knackered, I ride them in a 21 or 23. And when I am really fit, I ride them in a 19 or lower. It is always nice to have a lower gear to spare.
And not to be too long-winded it depends on what kind of cadence you ride the hills. Out of the saddle you ride 1 gear higher, and then change down when you sit down - nominally, depending on how you are feeling.
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Permalink Reply by Darren S. on -
Nothing wrong with compacts for climbing! Its always fun to watch guys on 53/39 chainrings grinding up the steeper hills, while us compact riders just keep on spinnin' to the summit!
Essentially, as long as you have a range of gears (front and back) that allow you to spin at your preferred cadance, whether on the flat or in the hills, its all good.
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Permalink Reply by Belinda Hoare on -
We're doing high gear / low cadence strength efforts! :) I always feel embarassed when spinners blow past me when I'm doing my efforts up Norton Summit, at about 14km/hr... my ego feels the need to explain...
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Permalink Reply by Michael Warner on -
Hi Darren,
It mostly depends on whether you want a want a gear lower than your current 23 for climbing. If it forces you to stand up or grind uncomfortably on the steepest hills you like to tackle, then go for a 25 or even a 27. Of course, some people prefer grinding up steep hills, but IMHO it's better to have the choice.
As for the small end, an 11 would only benefit you if you want to pedal down descents for some extra speed. It's a must if you're racing, but optional otherwise :-)
The downside of widening your cassette's range is that the gaps get wider, and you're less likely to find an optimal gear for your preferred cadence. That bothers some people more than others.
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Permalink Reply by Alexander Langman Hender on -
I'm pretty young and pretty fit, I ride fixed a lot of the time, I have no hip, knee or ankle trouble and there's no shortage of strength.
But I run a 12-27 cassette.
I believe a lot of race oriented bikes are sold overgeared, largely because the pros use highly geared cassettes a lot of the time. The extra range and capability is invaluable, especially when you're tired.
Although I hear that Jens Voight runs an 11-12-12-12-12-12-12-12-12-12...
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Permalink Reply by Wombat on -
I have an awesome range of gears... for the flats and for taking the kids to school or just tootling around, I have 46/16. For the long climbs, I have a 46/16. For shorter climbs, like the first 3km of the veloway, I ride that other one, the 46/16. Oh... and on the track I have also ridden a 46/16.
Moral: you get used to what you have and you do with that what you are capable of doing. When I first got my single speed (to much haw-hawing from the cheap seats and the peanut gallery) it was a struggle to start off, and I did end up walking up a few hills. As I have got fitter and my legs have got stronger, I have been able to do more, and to do things differently... take different routes.
I would personally go for the spread rather than the close ratios, but then I have not owned a geared road bike in about 20 years so what would I know... it's on its way.
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