Cassettes - What Sprocket Combination Should I consider
I know this question is a bit like "how long is a piece of string" but I'm curious (and a little naive) as to what combination of Sprockets I need on a Cassette.
After a successful Melbourne Cup I have been given the green light to go ahead with the purchase of some new wheels. I think I've narrowed down the wheel selection, however the selection of the Cassette is proving a little more difficult.
I've decide to go with the Dura-Ace 7900 10 Speed Cassette, however there is quite a choice for sprocket combo.
11-21
11-23
11-25
11-27
11-28
12-23
12-25
12-27
I'm running 53-39T up front and my current wheels are 12-23T and this combo seems ok and seems sufficient for climbing and fast flats and downhills.
My first thoughts were to just get the Dura-Ace equivalent 12-23. But is this an opportunity to change things up for the better.....That and my usual online store doesn't have the 12-23 in stock.
My search online didn't really clear things up for me so I thought I'd put it out there for comment. Happy to hear all sides of the story and what works best for who and what.
At this stage I'm leaning towards the 11-23.......
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Belinda Hoare on -
As someone who runs compacts (i.e. will never be strong enough to warrant a 53-11), I was always told by my coach that unless you can fully exploit the capacity of your top gear to its maximum and be found 'wanting' for more, then there's no real need to go from a 12 to an 11. The question for me would be that by going for an 11-23 over a 12-23, what gear are you losing (assuming you're going from a 10 speed to a 10 speed)? If its only a mid-range gear, then you'll probably never miss it. If you're not losing out on your lower end and don't need lower gears, then I'd say.... flip a coin. 11-23 or 12-23.
my 2c worth.
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Permalink Reply by Alastair (A-Man) Dowler on -
It depends on whether you like to spin or grind, I went to a 11-28 from a 12-25. The 28 helps on hills but I'm thinking of going back to the 25 as I reckon I just need to HTFU plus when you have a lower gear you use it and then you actually go up hills slower.
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Permalink Reply by Michael Warner on -
I know a great climber who always spins rather than grinds. About a year ago he was persuaded by one of his bigger A-grade mates that he'd be faster if he built up his strength by grinding instead. He tried it on a hilly training ride, injured his knees and had to rest them for a couple of weeks before riding again.
The moral is that you should do what suits your body, and put your speed second. I'm lucky in having no knee or back trouble, so I tend to alternate spinning and standing to break it up, although spinning is faster.
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Permalink Reply by Davidtcr on -
I suspect that your friend tried to do to much too soon, using a big gear up hills is really good as strength training, but it is something that you need to build up to.
I'm only 58 kg, so certainly not big, but while I was training for the Three Peaks I put in some big gear climbing and it worked very well. I started by just riding one gear bigger than normal, and over several weeks slowly built up to being able to do climbs in much bigger gears. I now regularly do 5 to 6% climbs in a 50/14, and occasionally in a 50/12. When I am doing this I also don't try and climb at the same speed as in a smaller gear, in fact for strength training you want to be doing it quite slowly so that you are really forcing the cranks.
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Permalink Reply by Darren Bosanko on -
I admire your courage in admitting that you use a 11-28. I'd often wondered what a 28 would feel like on some hills.
If anything it would be good to get the cadence up a bit on some hills, however my focus is Triathlon which is a TT environment.
The 18 is missing on the 11-23. I think the 39-11 combination might come in handy.
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Permalink Reply by Dahondude on -
12-27 would be my vote. I have a nine speed cassette and I can honestly say I almost never use the 12, 13, 14 but the 23, 25, 27 are a godsend on long climbs. I can sit down and spin-away while others with 23 or less are struggling out of the saddle. I love climbing too so its not like I am using the 27 cos I am a wuss.
Having said all that I rode up the Old Freeway on my single speed the other week for the first time. I am not sure of the gear ratio but it was probably something equivalent to a 39/19. My back was killing me by the time I got to the bollards but I did it 2 minutes faster than on my normal road bike. So maybe I just need to HTFU too and get a straight 12-20 on my road bike.
You wont be able to use the 39-11 combo on your road/TT bike, due to chain alignment problems, and in fact on most road bikes I dont think you can use the bottom 2-3 sprockets with the small front chain ring, in the same manner that its difficult/unwise to use largest 2-3 sprockets with your big front chain ring. Make sense?
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Permalink Reply by Belinda Hoare on
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You WILL be able to use the 39-11 combo, despite chain alignment problems. Cross-chaining won't do anything except grind your chain a bit against the front derailleur, and make an annoying noise. You wouldn't want to be cross-chaining for hours, but seriously, its no big deal. Dura Ace will allow you to trim the front derailleur to minimise the cross-chaining.
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Permalink Reply by Dahondude on
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yeah but who wants to ride along with their chain rubbing on the front derailleur making an awful racket, wearing out their $50-100 chain, $50-100 chain rings and $50-100 rear cassette when you could just use the 53/15 and get exactly the same gear ratio? On a 9 speed rear cassette (11-23) you only have 13 (of a maximum 18) unique gear ratios (5 are duplicated by different combinations of 53 and 39 front chain ring, and four of these involve a good - ie straight chain alignment versus bad - very angled chain alignment combination, so its better - ie you wont wear out your expensive drive chain - to use the straighter combination).
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Permalink Reply by Belinda Hoare on
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It depends what you're doing on your bike. If its just a leisurely ride through the hills, fine. Find a 'straighter' chain alignment. If you're racing and have less time to think about the finances of disposable chains, then shifting from the small to the big front ring - and risking throwing your chain altogether and bringing yourself and everyone around you down - then a little cross-chaining for a few minutes doesn't matter.
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Permalink Reply by Nic Clark on -
Agree. As I'm racing and accelerating, I'll shift from 39-15 to 53-19 then 18..17..16... etc. as it's the next biggest gear that enables continuous acceleration to top speed.
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Permalink Reply by Darren Bosanko on
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I don't get it. Your shifting from small to big chain ring during a race? I assume its when your climbing right?
Personally I'd avoid any big to small (or vice versa) changes during a race. This is when your most likely to drop your chain.
Just to reiterate, bike fit is key when climbing.
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Permalink Reply by Nic Clark on
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What's not to get? I race all year round and do this all the time... and so does everyone else I race with...because you have to! If you're dropping your chain the front derailleur isn't tuned properly.
We do it in races after completing a climb (not during, you'd slow down) in the small ring, and accelerate back up to speed. You HAVE to change front rings, as speed goes from 28-50+kmh very quickly. If you stayed in the small chain-ring, you'd quickly run out of gears.
Another example, rode into a 50+kmh headwind for 40k's til the bunch got worn down into using the small front ring. Then turned and accelerated to hold 60+kmh for the next hour ...Prime small to big ring material!
Ha i sound angry but just saying it like it is.
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