Best way to clean up surface rust on rims & brighten cloudy alloy
Hi,
I've just picked up an older road bike for not very much money and want to give it a general makeover, starting with new white wall tyres and a brake clean and rebuild.
There are some small areas or surface rust on the rims and the alloy on the handlebars, stem and crank arms look a little cloudy with some minor pitting.
I've heard that aluminium foil (folded and dipped in water) works to remove small rust spots on metal and have also heard Brasso will do the same thing.
Any recommendations re tried and tested methods for rust removal, alloy brightening and rejuvenating handlebar tapes and saddle would be most appreciated.
Before photo attached
Tags: cleaning, paint, polishing, repair
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Tim Loft on -
If you just want to get rust off steelwool for the hardware shop use as fine a grit as you can get
If you want to rejuvenating / brightening lot's of time with some wet n'dry sand paper. All used wet start off at 400g remove any coating 1st then start working around the part till all sanded then redo with 600g, 800g till you get to 1000g if you can get finer keep going wet till you are about to strat the fines use a cutting paste or some thing like braso or sivler'o, rud down with a dry rag, use a pre paint clearer to give a clean the give it a SEAL coat of something paint, wax,
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Permalink Reply by Alastair (A-Man) Dowler on -
What Tim said is spot on, adding to that would be the use of some 3M scotch brite style pads. These work very well on aluminium as they are not too aggressive. I use scotch brite for cleaning up my braking surfaces, works a treat.
With the handle bars, rip off the old tape and replace. Do a search on you-tube for instructional video's.
Now all this talk of scotch has given me a thought.......
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Permalink Reply by Ian Rawley on -
Good advice from all here - I would just add; Start with a soft cloth and some metal polish just to see how well it comes up. If there are no deep scratches then the polish (Solvol / Brasso) will take off the oxydisation and quickly brighten things up. If you are bothered about any scratches then you will need to remove metal to flatten down the surface - this is where the wet and dry comes in...and a whole lot of sweat an tears. Only go as rough as you have to, there's no point in steaming in with the heavy grade stuff unless you really have to as this will only extend the process needlessly - you are just adding more scratches albeit finer ones after all. Don't worry about the black staining coming off with the polish it's just the oxydation coming away. Have fun. If you get really enthusiastic you can advance to using a powered buffing wheel and soap for a mirror like finish. You can buy these polishing kits on ebay etc.
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Permalink Reply by Stig of The Dump on -
Aluminium foil will work but it does create scratches. Autosol is the best I've used so far, it will take light surface rust off without any problems, heavily rusted stuff you can still get good results. its about $7-10 from car places.
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Permalink Reply by Richard on -
I'll second Autosol - I've just finished doing some alloy rims that were pretty sad and the results are such that I'm a little sad I didn't strip out the spokes so I could do every last nook and cranny. It was surprisingly easy too.
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Permalink Reply by Stephen Merrett on -
Thanks for the replies - sounds like a thumbs up for Autosol and a gentle approach.
I'm picking up the new white wall tyres from Clark's Cycles on Saturday and making a start on the brakes and general clean up over the weekend.
Looks like the weather forecast is favouring some time indoors anyway.
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Permalink Reply by Jeremy Miller on -
Auto-sol is amazing stuff - highly recommend it - Alan did a restoration on an old Raleigh - though this photo does not really do it justice - looks a treat all chrome and shine - he also put a few coats of clear coat over the job to seal it...
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Permalink Reply by Rob W on -
Another vote for Autosol. Make sure you have plenty of rag as aluminium is filthy by nature. Stainless steel cookware cleaner (powder) is good for cleaning up old spokes too. Just make it into a paste, apply to the rag, and rub it over the spokes.
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Permalink Reply by Mike Brisco on -
Rust removal from iron/steel- I'd second using, green nylon scourer, with detergent and water which doesnt scratch. Failing that, steel wool. Buy 2-3 scourers, they wear out & tear.
Rejuvenating handlebar tapes and saddles - I'd second, replacing the handlebar tape ($20). Australian Cyclist a month or two back, had an article, on how to do it.
Other tip is lanolin (which Jeremy Miller put me on to). On chrome or iron, turns rust dots from a powdery red, to black, and that colour seems to go better with the sheen of metal. It gives the old, long-used silver-and-black finish, on old wood-working tools, try-squares .
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Permalink Reply by Rob W on
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I used ranex rustbuster on all my oxidised steel components (bolts/nuts/washers/etc) and they came up fantastic. It converts the iron oxide into iron phosphate, and won't corrode any further.
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Permalink Reply by Roger ... on -
I have to agree with Phosphoric acid works very well on Aluminium. Use on a water damped sponge wearing a glove. Rinse the part off often with water and repeat. This acid doesnt react with anything but the oxide and paint but still be careful. Dont get it on skin though as you wont notice the burn till about 6 hours later when you skin starts drying out and cracking.
do not use a scotch brite or steel wool or the job will become much harder (requires a complete polish to get a uniform finish on the scratched anodising.)
for serious Polishing ala Fyxamatosis style ... get yourself a dremel with a felt tip with autosol polish. With effort Campagnolo parts polish up like chrome .. other brand groupsets don't cleanup anything like as well as old Campagnolo.
btw weak phosphoric acid is present in CocaCola etc
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